The Dior Fw25 parade, the time of the dress

« Orlando It is the text in which, more than others, Virginia Woolf speaks of how clothing identifies the genre, which is the language of fashion, and how this affects time « says Maria Grazia Chiuri telling a collection that contains and resolves many complexities: the role of fashion today, the definition of gender « a jacket is a jacket », the brand's references with Gianfranco Ferré and John Galliano.

In short, there is that the dress is representation, which is the gender display, in person, from the era, of census, of culture. There is that Maria Grazia Chiuri conceives fashion as « an active agent of representation ». First of all, of the personal self of each individualwoman or man who is.

There is that in world literature there is a book, Orlandowritten by Virginia Woolf in 1928 who talks about a young nobleman that Queen Elizabeth takes holds with him at court. Where he also remains with the successor, Giacomo I, who sends him an English ambassador to Asia. There is hit, for the second time, by a long sleep that lasts seven days from which women awaken. Timeless and without agingthe novel follows her until 1928 when the success of her book, Oakmakes it very famous (in practice it is the fictional biography of the writer Vita Sackville-West, lover of the Woolf).

Virginia Woolf has dedicated more than a reflection on clothes. He said that not wearing a ceremony dress meant rebelling and in an invitation to Charleston, his house that worked as a whole center of the Bloomsbury group, wrote to his friend Ts Elliot « Bring no Clothes ». But his stronger, and even ideological reflection is the one he does in Orlandohis best known novel, certainly not the most complex that has had numerous adaptations.

The most famous is the film of the same name by Sally Potter from 1992 with Tilda Swinton who, however, owes his genesis to the 1989 theatrical adaptation by Bob Wilson to the Schaubühne of Berlin with Jutta Lampe, resumed in 1993 in French with Isabelle Huppert at Théâtre Vidy-Lousanne Losanna and then in Paris at the Théâtre de l'Odéon: The direction is masterful and sublime the interpreter). Lastly it also intervened The Spanish philosopher and writer Paul B. Preciado with the docufilm Orlando, but Biographie Politique.

Finally, there is Bob Wilson who, called by Maria Grazia Chiuri, collaborated for the set up, An anatomical theaterand for the choreography of the parade and which crosses with a precise reference of this collection of chitters from Dior, and is the period of the artistic direction of Gianfranco Ferré (1989-1996).

Will be released on March 8, Women's Day, Her Dior Loïc Prigent's film that tells these 10 years of Chiuri at the helm of Christian Dior. There are interviews with the artists With which the artistic director of Dior collaborated through which, says Chiuri in the backstage, « I have become aware of the complexity » of work and change in general. It will be an opportunity to summarize a decisive job for the fashion of these years in a decisive brand for its development.

We do not know what's this collection that proceeds for additions and subtractions, traveling through time (« fashion is a time journey »). In the parterre of the anatomical theater wanted by Bob Wilson you can see the jackets brought with and without a corset (a removable corset), the white shirts, of which Ferrè was inventor and propagatorwith the addition of gorgiere and ruches (Orlando as a men), Crinoline worked the cannage (still Ferré) and the t-shirt J'adore dior (Galliano) insisted under the clothes. The shirt as a versatile possibility is also accompanied by the bomber and trench coats in technical fabrics or the lightened jacquard velvet dresses.

«Fashion is a daily performance. Representing it with the people who do it by profession is more stimulating, « says Chiuri of his collaborations with choreographers and directors (today Wilson but other times with the choreographer Sharon Eyal). As indeed the collaborations with the artists for the set -ups of the fashion shows. « I like community work And work with people who come from other worlds ». And fashion knows how much it is necessary, especially today, to open up to different worlds.