The dessert restaurant Coda – Diepresse.com
A cheese cake with plug -in bevert caramel, a delicate sweetness with paprika sausage: The Berlin dessert restaurant Coda beats the bridge between salty and sweet with exciting androgynous dishes.
A dream! Nobody who cleans fish next to you! » The view of the absence of the fish sheds thrown around (« They are really the horror ») was only part of the temptation for the Patissière Julia Leitner: When the Upper Austrian got the offer in Berlin after various stations at highly decorated addresses at home and abroad to build a dessertlocal in Berlin- it was not much better.
The Coda will celebrate its tenth birthday next year, Julia Leitner, who comes from the Rohrbach district, will be there as a chef from the start. Incidentally, the coda is not a completely fish -free workplace. Signature DISH of the restaurant is the « Caviar Popsicle »: a Jerusalem artichoke ice cream on the stem with a core of pecanny ganache (based on the Nogger Choc by Eskimo), dipped in sturgeon caviar and wrapped in a wafer-thin coat made of homemade white pecanny chocolate.
« /> Julia Leitner comes from Upper Austria, she is there as a chef from the start. Claudia Goedke
Own chocolate away from the bean
The coda in « Kreuzkölln », i.e. where Kreuzberg and Neukölln meet, can hardly be discovered behind a graffiti. It was originally designed as a dessert, today it is a fine dining restaurant with a high proportion of women, awarded two Michelin stars. As part of a long menu, there are exclusively dessert -like dishes, i.e. those that arise from classic patisser technology. Its subtle sweetness is of course so balanced that you can easily create all the corridors.
Refined sugar, as well as on finished fruit purees or other finished products common in the patisserie, is dispensed with. The team – this is remarkable – produces chocolate in the relatively small kitchen of the coda from the bean away, from the cocoa variety Arriba Nacional from Ecuador. A small collection of panel chocolate and chocolates can also be bought as a souvenir in Coda. All larger corridors are accompanied by a sparring partner in liquid form: A drink made of Oolong tea, Sherry Oloroso and Cardamom spirit comes to a dish from Melanzani, Pekannnuss and Lakritz.
« /> The drink pairing is part of the concept: a liquid sparring partner comes to every course. Claudia Goedke
The first tiny bite is a compact explanation of the direction of the march: a gummy bear from elaborately treated gold beets, without added sugar and yet from a certain sweetness that comes from the vegetables itself; The consistency is exactly that of gummy bears. A cake made of almond flour and sweet potatoes is baked with a beef mark, filled with Gouda and glazed with pure bevert beet caramel – hearty and dessert at the same time. « Umami is also very important to us. So that you don’t have the feeling that you now need a bag of chips, » says Julia Leitner, whose Austrian is already clearly colored after ten years of Berlin.
