Rome, the bitter goodbye of the chef Massimo Riccioli who closes « La Rosetta » at the Pantheon: « Low cost tourism destroyed us »
The historic fish restaurant of politicians and VIPs closed on May 10th. The owner: « City managed without criterion, only the deaths and run works »
Massimo Ricciolifirst ambassador of the marinara cuisine to Rome, closes « La Rosetta »fish of fish and champagne al Pantheon. He would have liked to arrive at the end of the year, instead nothing, stopped before: «After the last Vigili fine For the shadow of my curtain projected on the asphalt, however invaded of waste, I said to myself: but who makes me do it. Here you are, This has become Romea city without any criterion, nobody thinks of the troubles of tourism that removes Roman and residents and produces only dirt ».
It is a farewellheartfelt. Riccioli closed his place on May 10 – he was there, in the road that releases from Piazza della Rotondasince ’66 – and while telling he sits for a moment, in the perimeter of that employment of public land that, even that, has done so much to damn it. « By now in this city it seems that everything is enemy, » it is explained.
What is the main problem today for an entrepreneur of a certain level like her? “The problem is easily framed with a word, Overturism, an exaggerated tourism For the dimensions of the most visited part of the city which is the historical one: without bothering Paris as a comparison, here there are no large avenues, roads, escape points, we find ourselves exaggerated number of people who move on foot and, moreover, a non -level tourism: We must evaluate the expense capacity that, being low, favors street food activities that, in turn, bring dirt and waste. There people eat walking and then throw the paper on the streetbut even the premises leave the Sacchi on the street Since there are no times for the collection and so we end up with the great festival of seagull: think how nice, for my clientele, dinner at the tables outside! I have not been a racist but we have been here for 60 years and we have suffered this type of attendance: we have products, quality, cellar and prices that turn to another audience, in fact now i residents and the Romans here are not seen more ».
Rome is not governedhe says? « We don’t make a political theme, I would say the same things with another administration, mine is a practical speech, of those who worked a life in this place: did they tell me » do you know where the rosette is? Here, behind it is the pantheon « ». He feels his disappointment. “We were explorerswe brought the Oysters in RomeI tried to resist a strong story and a desire to stay there, I would not have wanted to be among the thrown out unfortunately, however, if it becomes a Makeup game At a certain point, the profit must also be adequate to the type of customers you have ».
The crisis begins with Covid: «It was a beautiful blowfor two years we have worked more as testimony, with catering and delivery, it was more a cost than anything else because I continued to pay the rent, the employees … but it was already seen that it was invading us, l‘wave of tourism unsustainable in one city managed without criteriawhere everyone is left free to do what they want without stakes that all thunder everyone, we too who are historical activity ».
The sandwiches. «They make catering in the hole, meanwhile in the street the row is formed, with the usual paper, and I wonder: they made a law for the events, it is possible that the occupation of public land of Dozens of people lined up Can’t be regulated? They only come to me, to do the fine? » That episode did not really go down to her: stories. “The shadow of the Kitchen curtaina service entrance: they told me to remove it, that the shadow projected on the ground was worth as an OSP, I said it is fine, the levo, but no, they still made me 5 thousand euros of fine which is that regardless of space, if it occupies 1 meter or 10 is the same. But I ask: those who control also look at other things, that the cars are not thrown to the ground, that people do not bivouacs, we put signs on respect for the city. That fine was a vile act».
“These are these anti-social responses, of non-closenessof non -solidarity, to discourage, when you see that all around nothing works. There are many problems: the center of Rome is closed, whoever works certainly does not live there and takes three hours to get from the outskirts, who makes him do it? Which then at midnight is All finished, there is no shopping or other. In these conditions and with this clientele you are forced to make a Postaccio. But that’s okay: the foreigners come, they are made Photo with stuffed pizza And they return to their happy villages: those who do not have hair on the stomach work like this, I don’t, I can’t start being a Amatriciana for 10 euros, all respect but it is not my story ».
Also i politicianshave changed, perhaps. «True, once we got there Craxithere was a great culinary effervescence and even around drinking a great turmoil was created, we were a historical place of meetings but also this attendance Over the years she has thinned. For a while we tried a lunch menu for 45 euros, but it didn’t go much. From us, the more the restaurant improved and the less we worked: a contradiction in terms ».
How this situation is resolved, what would say to Common? “We need to check the entrances, limiting the B&B and the various guest houses. We must save the city from this kind of tourism and its consequences, which otherwise will destroy it ».
And now, what will you do? «I am 71 years old, I would have stopped shortly anyway. Many colleagues and historical customers wrote to me, I’m glad. In these days I am still in the restaurant, I have to empty the cellar and I want to put some things in place, browse memories. I’m quiet, I will always deal with catering: I have a little ideaslet’s see later ».
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