Krog Commission Review: So good is Copper Club – Gin Bar and Asian Bistro
Ginen’s time is now: Hernö, Stockholm Bränni, Norrtelje Brenneri. In recent years, the Swedish distilleries have become increasingly renowned, and Ginbars has popped up around Stockholm. There are even special bus trips – Stockholm Gin Tour – where travelers are offered an odyssey among a handful of spread manufacturers.
One of the newer additions is the Copper Club, located in an industrial premises in a sleepy 90s area in Hammarby Sjöstad. Here, liquor is produced in colorful bottles – but it is just as much bar and restaurant. The large and well-visited dining room is filled with primarily couples in their 50s who seem to live nearby.
A Kent concert evening is high pressure in the dining room and Kent songs roam out over the dining room until the staff switches to music more inspired by the last season of « The White Lotus ». It is high ceilings, with palm trees and Buddhor, both in the form of statues and as paintings on the walls.
As it should, Copper Club has an extensive drink menu – where Gin plays the lead role. Gin and Tonic are found in many vintages – including non -alcoholic – where Ginger Passion (SEK 95) is both freshly acidic and has sting from ginger. But they also offer « Asian tapas », which is soon a rewrite for a one menu that pulls in all possible directions: a varied palette of everything from curry strokes to salads and tacos – with primarily Thai inspiration. But there is also a huge selection of sushi of various kinds.
The recommendation is Three four dishes per person, depending on hunger and mood. We try Nigiri Wagyu Umami (SEK 230/4 pieces) which are lumps of stubborn sushiris covered with thin slices of swindled beef that were insensitive to a teriyaki sauce and topped with grated parmesan (!). A rather sad way to handle an exclusive raw material and a serving that we would not recommend to anyone.
The teriyaki sauce returns on the maciron Crispy prawns (SEK 99/5 pieces) where it is also combined with chili mayonnaise and roasted onions. In this case, too, it will be overloaded, disparate flavors that do not want to marry each other but rather remove all the impressions from the basic ingredients shrimp and rice.
Better then is the crispy shrimp (SEK 120) served together with a wonderfully sour soup with lemongrass, chili and coconut milk. Both invigorating and fresh. Bonchon Chicken (SEK 120) is in turn childishly good with a crowd -free honey glazing on fried chicken pieces that companion with small finely pickled pieces radish.
For those who have difficulty deciding, Copper Club’s « Signature Tasting Menu » can be an alternative – seven dishes for SEK 475 to be ordered by at least two people in the company.
It begins with the Southeast Asian Snack Court Miang Khamwhich consists of small bowls of raw salmon, dried shrimp, ginger, red onion, chili, peanuts, coconut flakes and other accessories – around a sauce with a slightly thorny coconut consistency. It is fresh and umamistinn from both fish sauce and shrimp paste. Small betel leaves should be filled with the different accessories and sauce and eaten as a small minitaco. Good and a fresh start to dinner.
Second serving consists of sushi, in the form of a not so hot Spicy Tuna-Roll with chili mayonnaise on. Six Maki pieces that taste quite like those you can get at a budget sushi. Asian Taco Is better: crispy fried tacos shell with a creamy salmon and potato stir that is suspected like Swedish potato salad. Chili and coriander give freshness to this little mouthpiece. Noodle Roll Chicken are small soft rolls on wide rice noodles. A fairly uninspired serving that, in addition to chicken, is also filled with bean sprouts and tofu. Most taste gives the soy in which the rollers are served.
The menu ends with Three meat dishes of varying quality. The highlight is mass -gamous, the southern Thai curry with boiled potatoes and chopped peanuts with large tender pieces of beef in a musty stew. It is served together with jasmine rice and small fried root bread to be dipped in the sauce. Good!
The fact that the coconut ribs are flavored with just coconut is nothing that is noticed very much. The sweet seasoning could just as well have been served at a barbecue restaurant. The meat is dandruff and falls apart in the mouth – but unfortunately the ribs are not even lukewarm during serving. They are served with lightly pickled radish.
Crispy Chicken Salad (SEK 130) consists of three pieces of fried chicken fillet on a bed of sloppy cut tomato, cucumber, red onion and celery. The dressing is fresh, and the chicken absolutely crispy – at least just when the dish comes in. Unfortunately, it all breathes more lunch restaurant chicken salad than Asian tasting menu.
The dessert offer offers both Asian and a neighborhood pub. Strawberry roti (SEK 130) is the same puffy dough knot as to the mass collection of mass in sweeter form and filled with strawberries. With chocolate sauce, the dessert tastes Nutella Pancake, a closing sweet shock along with a smooth vanilla ice cream.
The chocolate fondant (SEK 125) is served with good and creamy salt caramel ice cream and is exemplary runny in the middle but unfortunately with too soft shell. Too bad for an otherwise habile dessert.
Perhaps it is the large and sprawling menu that makes what is served is of uneven quality. While some of the dishes are spicy and careful, others are both tired and unengaged. There are no direct bottom buttons here, but also not something that makes us dream back.
For a good drink with snacks when you want to remember a charter trip or backpacking in Thailand, Copper Club is excellent – but anyone who wants a really good dinner may be prepared for swaying.
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