In « North African kitchens », recipes like dumplings – Liberation
« We eat culture », To say to say The physico-chemist Hervé this, famous inventor of molecular cuisine and traveling companion of Pierre Gagnaire. This sentence has rarely sounded as just as in this collection of recipes from North Africa from the journalist and author Farah Keram. She composes 48 recipes there like so many life stories from Algeria to Tunisia, two countries where part of her family lives. « It was almost a feeling of urgency to want to grasp to retransmit what the North African kitchens tell and carry in them, she writes. Beautiful, sacred, nourishing, but also unsaid and food realities experienced on the southern shore of the Mediterranean. ”
Like many people of Magrébine origin living in France, Farah Keram took time to tame this culinary culture, when she did not reject it – in this her words echo that of journalist Nabil Wakim, who told in an exciting book – Arabic for all : Why is my language taboo in France (Threshold, 2020) – its complex relationship to Arabic. She too talks about a vague feeling of shame, a culture perceived as illegitimate, in a France little inclined to enhance the differences. Childish