Donatella Versace. The woman who reinvented the Italian luxury

He never felt ‘fantastically beautiful’, but I always wanted to be ‘impressive’. And impressed for its extravagance, strength and creativity. Now, at age 69, Donatella Versace is leaving the creative direction of the brand founded by his brother, playing the role of main ambassador focusing on the philanthropic interventions of the label, such as the Versace Foundation.

It has always transmitted power, being one of the most iconic, important and successful personalities in recent fashion history. Considered «Neurotic» by some, it is described as a «Business Woman», «Very serious» who thinks about Versace 24 hours a day.

Never felt «Fantastically beautiful»but I always wanted to be « impressive ». He was responsible for the transformation and success of Versace after his brother’s murder in 1997 at the door of his Miami Beach mansion; For the emergence and success of the famous 1990s supermodels – Naomi Campbell, Claudia Schiffer, Cindy Crawford, Linda Evangelista, Carla Bruni or Kate Moss – who became known as her « Muses ». With an unmistakable style, marked by the extensions, the platinum blond hair – which she has been wearing since she was 11 – the permanent tan, the smoked black eyes and tight clothes, never feared people who could be better from her. «On the contrary! I look for them »revealed in an interview in 2018 granted to the duo Michael Ebert and Sven Michaelsen for Digital Magazine Ssense. And never thought of changing her hairstyle. «Being blonde is a way of being in life. If I did, I would not recognize me »admitted to the same publication.

Believes it is not trends that drive the fashion industry, but «The eternal obsessions of women when they look in the mirror». Questioned about how to dress if he had to present himself before God, he replied that he would carry high heels, one of his or her or her or her or her or her or her or her. «I’m sure God has never seen anyjoked. In the same year, he said it is very difficult to be who he is. «I would like not to be recognized… people ask me for a selfieand I get embarrassed. I am shy ». As for the responsibility of being an artistic director of a company with such history, he recognized that it was hard.

Despite arguing that Versace has always been a mark for strong women, «That they are not afraid to go out, to expose themselves and to be glamorous – women who believe in themselves»He admitted several times to have several insecurities. And perhaps they are the result of their complicated past and the evidence they had to be taken seriously. Even so, it transformed the Italian brand into a luxury and bold reference. Now, at 69, he leaves office, playing the role of main ambassador focusing on the philanthropic interventions of the label, such as the Versace Foundation.

Versace recently announced that the place that has so far belonged to Donattela Versace will be occupied by Italian Dario Vitale, former creator of Miu Miu, a luxury brand he left in January this year. Vitale has an extensive curriculum in the fashion world, having passed other large houses like Prada or Bottega Veneta and will take office from April 1 – for the first time in almost 50 years, the brand will no longer be drawn by a Versace. It is recalled that Versace has been the property of Capri Holdings since 2018, when the multinational bought the company for more than 1.8 billion euros to the family and Blackstone.

«Supporting the new generation of designers has always been important to me, and I am excited to see Versace through a new look»said the designer in an official statement. «Carrying my brother Gianni’s legacy has been the greatest honor of my life»he added. But after all, who is Donatella? How did the fashion world revolutionize?

The Gianni muse

Born on May 2, 1955, in Reggio, in the Calabria region, in southern Italy. The youngest of a family with four, quite conservative children, some say that he grew up in the shadow of his older brothers, Saint and Gianni.

The mother, Francesca, owned a sewing studio. Therefore, since he was very young, Donatella was interested in the area, as was his older brother, Gianni, with whom he always had a very close relationship. «I was your doll and your best friend. He was wearing amazing clothes, I had led to nightclubs and bars since I was 11 years old. I loved it. It was the best time of my life »shared with the The Guardianin 2017.

Although this has studied architecture – according to the magazine Hefor the fascination he had for the Greek ruins that dominated the landscape of the city where he was born and would later appear in his creations – Gianni did not follow this career. He started working as a designer at the age of 22, drawing collections as freelancer. In 1978, he opened Versace’s first store in Milan, starting an empire. In March of that same year, he presented his first female collection with his surname on the label; In September came the male. And Versace’s success was «Practically instantaneous».

Despite having studied Italian literature in Florence and wishing to follow the area of ​​public relations, Donatella has always been involved in the business, first as a muse and confidant of his brother and, later, as responsible for the emergency line-versus-purposely created for her. Donatella advised Gianni on how to design and orchestrate advertising campaigns and brand fashion shows.

According to the magazine Fashion networkhe played a decisive role in the formation of Versace’s baroque and sensual aesthetics. «Dressed in leather and balancing in high heels, Donatella was not only a creative force, but also a master in image creation. One insider From Hollywood before it became the norm, it was one of the first designers to resort to celebrities as brand ambassadors, hiring Madonna, Prince and Elton John for their campaigns »describes the publication. In addition, he understood very early on the power of the main photographers (Avedon, Steven Meisel) and the new generation of supermodels, hiring Naomi Campbell, Claudia Schiffer and Carla Bruni. «These new models have changed fashion and became part of the Versace family»explained in a documentary by Loïc Prigent, quoted by the same magazine.

In 1993, Gianni was diagnosed with a rare cancer in the ear. At that time, he began preparing his sister to be his successor if he does not resist the disease. Although he managed to beat her, the designer’s life was really close to the end. On the morning of July 15, 1997, the world woke up in shock with the news that it had been murdered by serial killer 27 years old, Andrew Cunanan, at the door of his South Beach home in Miami, with two heads on his head.

According to international press, police investigations revealed that Cunanan was a psychopath. Intelligent, outgoing, pathological liar, without empathy or remorse, he committed five murders from April to July 1997, being the last one.

The Ascension of the Stylist

Until then Donatella had never designed a main collection. However, it was chosen to stay ahead of the Empire. And the early years were not easy. «During the first five years, I felt lost… I made many mistakes»confessed to The Guardian. «When my brother was murdered, I had the whole world with my eyes on me and 99% of them thought I couldn’t. At first, maybe I thought the same (…). My brother was the king »admitted.

According to Fashion networkwithout self -confidence, eventually came into depression and the media were not sweet, criticizing their dramatic plastic transformations and actions. In addition, at that time, he also fought against cocaine addiction, which culminated in an intervention organized by his friends, leading her to a season in 2004. «I felt that everyone looked at me with bad eyes and created a mask that protected me. Who buys fashion from a weak stylist who is addicted to drugs and therefore cannot withstand the pressure?remembered in the interview with Ssense. « Nobody! That’s why I created a second Donatella: cold, distant, aggressive and frightening »continued.

In the second half of the decade, writes the The Guardianeventually found his voice. «I was listening to everyone and at a timely thing I thought, ‘Who was the person my brother listened to? I’. I worked with him every day. I was much more than a muse. It was a dialogue between us. We discussed everything »he told the British newspaper. As your confidence increased, the designer began to adopt «The Language of Female Empowerment». Thus, he believes, his perspective as a woman «Ended up changing Versace»making it «More feminine and more feminist».

Gian Giacomo Ferraris, the new director-general, in 2009 also helped the Italian brand make the leap. With him, he diversified: he opened hotels, sold watches, perfumes and expanded his emergency brands. In addition, he returned to passerelle of haute couture with bold dresses.

Despite the problems he faced at the beginning of his position, the Spring/Summer 1998 parade, held in October 1997, a few months after his brother’s murder – in which Donatella debuted with a solo collection, although Gianni left some sketches of the collection before he died – was for many critics that this honor would have his brother’s legacy, while showing his own identity.

Throughout his career as a stylist, it was the head behind large campaigns by figures such as Madonna, Beyoncé, Lady Gaga and Gigi Hadid, and created parades that were considered true events.

One of his most iconic creations was the legendary Jungle Dress-a dress of emerald and blue greenery leaves, with a big neckline to the navel-that singer and actress Jennifer Lopez wore in the 2000 Grammys. The search for photographs of the artist with the dress was so great that it helped invent the inventing Google Image Searchthe images search engine.

Regarding the loving life of the designer, he was married twice. His first marriage was with former model Paul Beck in 1983. From this marriage were two children: Allegra and Daniel Versace. The relationship came to an end in 2000. Four years later, he married again, this time with businessman Manuel Dallori. The relationship lasted only one year. Since then it remains single. And, according to itself, « Very well resolved with your status. » Says that « Men are only needed for love adventures and physical relationships. »

In 2023, the Italian government recognized its contribution to fashion and culture, granting it the order of merit of the Italian Republic, one of the highest distinctions in the country.

«Versace will always be versace: luxury, glamor, sensuality and elegance»assured the French newspaper Libération. «I never had an alternative or I thought of a plan B. Everything in my life turned around Versace. Everything in my life turned around fashion ».