« Cheap dirndl are a devaluation of this cultural heritage »

Mr. Burger, originally you were a fashion designer with your own studio in Linz and then relied on the dirndl design for the Gössl company. What personal connection do you have with the dirndl?
Emanuel Burger: It is a piece of home that accompanies me not so much a piece of clothing for folk festivals, but a cultural asset that is actually still present in the country in everyday life, for example when walking. I even have the impression that it is on the advance because it fits every occasion and you are always well dressed. It is An incredibly uncomplicated and universally usable piece of clothing. No dress of this world can be changed as much as the dirndl, for example if you contribute another apron or a new blouse. And, which is particularly attractive to me, you can reinterpret it incredibly freely. When I started to design Couture Dirndl, I thought about whether this is not an opportunity to carry a piece of our culture out into the distance, because the dirndl has the potential that people also in New York, Rome or Paris to inspire.

In the meantime, they no longer work for the Gössl company, but design fashion made of wood fibers. Dirndl continues to captivate them.
CITIZENS: Yes, they don’t let go of me anymore. So far I have designed, sewn and also embroidered the fabrics for fun. All four dirndls are In the current special exhibition of the textile museumS see. For the fabric of the blue and white model, I found what I was looking for in Tim’s sample books, but did not print the pattern but embroidered. The tips are old handicrafts of my grandmother, which she left me. Now you know how to spend my evenings.

How long do you need for such a dirndl?
CITIZENS: About a season of « The Mentalist ». Seriously, I usually see series.

And how can you look and sew and embroider at the same time?
CITIZENS: For me it is like an audio book. But not every series is suitable. I prefer the one who speaks a lot. Pure action series in which a lot happens in the picture, but nobody speaks, do not work.

Which elements of classic dirndls should not be missing from the newly interpreted designer dirndl?
CITIZENS: A specific list in my head exists in the subconscious. I always change the silhouette a bit in my creations, sometimes more, like the skirt reminiscent of the rococo ripen. But then you have to recognize other classic elements, e.g. the neckline with the striking straps. It always has to stay in the scales, so that as a viewer you can immediately recognize the dirndl, but you have to look twice in order to perceive the peculiarity.

You said it earlier that a dirndl fits every occasion. But one also says: a dirndl stands every woman.
CITIZENS: That is correct.

Why is that?
CITIZENS: The dirndl does not depend on the figure of his wearer. It fits, no matter which type, no matter which figure. This is due to the basic shape of the cut, because the dirndl already has a waist on its own, which is still emphasized by the apron. That means there is a female shape for the body. And then there is also the fact that a dirndl is usually adapted to its wearer, the skirt is shortened accordingly, the carrier height can also be changed, that is: it sits. This is hardly available today with clothing from the trade, which is a matter of course for the dirndl.

Let’s come to the practical questions: Which dirndl trends are there currently?
CITIZENS: At the moment, the link is very popular in all facets from very wide to narrow. I particularly like the linen belts, they usually have a wider part at the front, which can be embroidered or not, and are closed into a stitch with delicate binders. I can recommend this to everyone because you get a completely new look that is currently very modern. And then you notice that simple dirndls are very popular with young women. So no floral prints or ruffles, but single-colored tone-in-tone models in colors such as mud brown, gray or khaki.

And now the cardinal question: short or long?
CITIZENS: In the middle. I would always recommend a knee-covered dirndl, i.e. 70s length. For long dirndls you have to be the guy and the occasion has to fit – and briefly doesn’t work at all.

And what shoes. You can also see sneakers, boots or cowboy boots for dirndls today?
CITIZENS: I am also very classic. I understand every woman who attracts a sneaker – from a practical point of view. I can’t understand it purely aesthetically. And: Even a shoe with a slight heel can be comfortable, it doesn’t have to be a high heel.

It actually hurts when you see the mass goods at folk festivals?
CITIZENS: I try to formulate this diplomatically: I can understand that one for The one -time visit to a folk festival don’t want to spend so much money. But to a certain extent, the cheap dirndl are a devaluation of this cultural asset.