Chanel and the parade in Como where it acquired the historic seteries Mantero: « Made in Italy is our heart »

We meet Bruno Pavlovskyfashion president of Chanel, After the visit to two companies acquired in part recently (Seterie Manter) and in full for more than twenty years (shoe factory Roveda) and on the eve of the Cruise show a Como (scheduled for Tuesday 30 April 2025). And collecting the affirmation that « Made Italy today is our heart » is a pleasant surprise.
Let’s start with the news: an acquisition of the minority of the Mantero, the historic Seteria Comasca, still « directed » by the IV Generation, the brothers Franco and Lucia Mantero.
« Mantero for me is a fashion excellence in Italy, being part of it now is an honor after working with them for decades. And being able to develop their art in the future, together, is a privilege ».

In Roveda and in hand, but also in the other companies you have entered (they are now about twenty) you have left the freedom to be what they have always been, including production for other luxury brands.
«Each manufacture has its own specificity: they are different knowledge and it would not be right to align them. The obligation for us is to continue those narratives. I was very young when I met Mr. Roveda. That man was head of a wonderful chain. He taught me, he taught us a lot and then so the managers made themselves followed. I can say that every acquisition was a joy, in giving, receiving, but above all in transmitting. Even letting everyone continue to work for others. And today, in production, there are more Chanel employees in Italy than in France. For us this country is now family and heart ».
A great gesture of respect, not so obvious.
«It is not a free gesture, it is a gesture for things to last forever. They are not stories of competitions but of different points of view. Even internally, it happens, with them he studied (so in France they call the Editor’s Offices). Didn’t Karl Lagerfeld himself work on multiple brands (from Chanel to Fendi to his editor’s note)? I think it is a signature of Chanel, also this: leave your partners free to be the best ».

Then there are initiatives as nascent m’asters to reward and train young people: another remarkable commitment in the area.
«The transmission of crafts is necessary. Fundamental to continue to be an excellence in the world « .
The news of the entrance in the man, on the eve of the Cruise parade of Como: alignment of the planets? Or communication strategy?
«Como is a wonderful place, a myth for Americans and beyond. An important inspiration for it studied it: with many cinematographic references. And then also the idea of ​​paying homage to such an important supply chain as that of silk, which resisted and suffered and fought but has remained an excellence over time. We had all the reasons to be there ».
How do you identify the manufactures in which to invest?
«We don’t look for, but we work with them. Let’s start from here and then from the desire that they are and continue to be even the best in the world ».
Como will be one of the last shows without « commander »: for more than a year you have paraded without designer, it must not have been easy.
«Without commander but with many captains. The work of Karl before and of Virginie (viard ed) afterwards meant that it is a team, in the studio, able to draw and develop the collections in compliance with the maison. Creation in Chanel has always been a team work led by an artistic director. In short, creativity has never been based on the individual. This allowed us to go on, always, and to manage the transition, never disappointing anyone. The priority is the ateliers and creativity, but immediately afterwards there are boutiques and customer experience: we have a very strong base created during Covid, when the places were not accessible ».

One of the few luxury brands that is holding, despite wars, contraction in China, to the latest on the duties. How was it possible?
“Yes, I’m happy. In 2024 they closed with best sales of the previous year and the forecasts say that it will also be for 2025. We have always worked to have balanced presences everywhere and aligned prices: a courageous act. So we are not at the mercy of geographies ».
Many competitors instead arrange: neither the markets nor the voids in creative directions do not manage.
«It is a difficult moment and there are no magical recipes. Chanel, in the nineties, also had its dark moments in the 1990s, I think about ’94 -’95. But you have to go on with respect and humility. Then we have always had advice that supported and protected us and allowed modern growth over time. However, I add that in any case it is not good for the system to have « competitors » that are bad ».
And from Matthieu Blazy, in September, what do you expect? From the announcement to the debut, months have passed.
«Chanel that is not just a collection, but ten. It was important for Matthieu to dive into the world of Mademoiselle and Karl and the whole house. Immerse yourself in the imagination. He did it with great curiosity and opening and I am sure he will be able to return everything but with a different vision. A Chanel with its strong codes of certain, but according to Matthieu. We needed his energy ».